The Solovair Classic Collection 8 Eye Derby boot is an iconic style steeped in history.

Manufactured on our 409 last and features classic soft suspension soles, along with traditional Goodyear welted construction.

Our 8 Eye Derby boot is made up of seven pieces of leather. The two quarters are “whipped” together before the shell binding is attached using a standard stitch. An additional row is added underneath the binding.

The back panel and the renowned Solovair pull tag is then attached with two rows of traditional stitching.

The vamp & tongue once connected are then “faced up” These are two small pieces of leather that attach the tongue & vamp to the side panels of the boot. 16 eyelets are then inserted into both the quarters & facing.

The Puritan stitch (triple stitch) is then added to ensure longevity.

Moving from the Closing room to the Making room. Using a specialist machine the rib is attached to the insole. The leather pieces which have now become the “upper” are stretched and moulded over a last and the boot starts to take shape. The insole is then attached to the “upper” with the help of the “rib”.

The pre-stitched welt strip with the unmistakeable Solovair grey stitch is then attached to the “upper” using a chain stitch, before being flattened on the underside. The boot is then turned upside down and a felt mid-sole and beechwood shank is inserted. Both of which support the insole, provide cushioning and insulation.

The outsole is now fused to the flattened welt using a heat sealing machine. A hot blade (approximately 700°C) is rotated between the two components. This is done by eye and is a real art. With the boot structure complete, the excess from the sole is trimmed off and the last removed.

Round to the “Shoe Room” a stamped heel sock is attached inside using a strong adhesive and the boot is given a good clean and polish. A lace is added to each boot and each pair is boxed and labelled ready for our warehouse team.